11 irrigation tips you didn’t know
- Irrigation zones are governed by the Gallons per minute (G.P.M) and PSI from the house
- Building your zones to maximum GPM capacity isn’t good. High water consumption on your street can affect your zone running effectiveness ie evening use of dishwashers, showers, other irrigation systems. Always build a zone under capacity by 0.5-1.0 GPM to avoid problems.
- Always have an external water shutoff on your mainline, and make sure it’s before the blowout connection. An external water shutoff allows the neighbor to shut your irrigation system off if your away and there is a problem. It also prevents pressure against your indoor shutoff when the system is being blown-out.
- Always mark the interior irrigation shutoff, for easy access.
- Different heads use different amounts of water. So you should keep beds and lawns on separate zones (Small heads like Micro-jets and Drip use Gallons per Hour, whereas Rotors and Spray heads use Gallons per Minute. You’ll never get them to work together for a landscape satisfaction).
- Running pipes under hardscapes without conduits or to save trenching, is done to save time for the company, but doesn’t save time or money for the homeowner in the future.
- The white wire in the valve box is always the ‘common’ wire.
- Electrical tape is never a ‘professional’ substitute for ‘Silicon filled’ Marrets.
- Burying the valves or valvebox, is the biggest sign of a non-professional company.
- ‘Pipe-pulling’ the irrigation lines will increase your chances of problems if you want to aerate your lawn in the future, as it’s impossible to tell how deep your irrigation lines are.
- Anyone that says you don’t need to blowout your irrigation system in winter, shouldn’t be taken seriously.
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